Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Traffic on YouTube and in the New Yorker

Last year I did a general post on the problem of human trafficking in Moldova. Imagine my surprise when I happened upon a documentary on this topic - with a plot centering around a woman from Tiraspol, no less - while channel surfing over the weekend. Much of the dialogue is in Russian with subtitles, so if you're looking to improve your knowledge of the lexical registers people use when they are feeling extremely angry or admitting to being criminally shady, the five-part series on YouTube may be just what you're looking for.





More seriously, in spite of the efforts of NGOs like the one that apparently sponsored this film, trafficking obviously remains both a disease on a societal level and the source of thousands of broken lives on an individual level.

The New Yorker profiled one Moldovan "countertrafficker" earlier this year in an article worth reading; you can listen to additional commentary from the author here. See also this related slide show, if you can get it to work.

Sunday, November 23, 2008

The end of an era


According to [info]tema, they're changing the ceilings at Sheremetyevo-2. I think the first time I saw them must have been in 1984. The impression they created then was that they were a result of some horrible central planning glitch - a pipe factory with so much useless excess output that it had to be cut up and repurposed into a shiny (well, it must have been shiny once) ceiling treatment. Anyway, although I'm sure the border guards are as surly as ever and the lines to see them as chaotic as always (though maybe it's all changed, I haven't been back for over two years now!), it won't be the same without the ceilings.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

"For Putin," once again...



I first reported on the online For Putin (Za Putina) movement last year. At the time, it was an amorphous initiative which seemed at first to be aimed at encouraging Putin to stick around for a third term. It ended up doing nothing more than providing another platform for Russia.ru videos and, one supposes, a bit of assistance with online PR during the election cycle and presidential transition.

As with all such websites, one might just as easily conclude that it was set up in order to attract Kremlin or campaign funds (if there was any difference between the two) to web design companies affiliated with its organizers or to demonstrate the zealousness of their support for the correct political line.

Now, ITAR-TASS reports the following (via JRL):
Nationwide Movement 'For Putin' Flings Doors Open

MOSCOW, November 18 (Itar-Tass) - The all- Russia movement "For Putin" is opening public offices in all regions of the Russian Federation to improve the population's competence in matters of law, Co-chairman of the public movement. Lawyer Pavel Astakhov declared at a forum " In Support of Vladimir Putin's Course."

The public offices will provide juridical consultations to the population to improve their knowledge of law, Astakhov said. Such offices will be affiliated to Vladimir Putin' public reception rooms in regions, the lawyer added. Such public offices are needed as much as ever now because the population is concerned over the world financial crisis and consequences it might entail for the Russian economy, Astakhov said.

The Movement " For Putin" created a year ago fully supports the present course "Strategy-2020" and the initiatives voiced by President Dmitry Medvedev in his State of the Nation address to the Federal Assembly, Astakhov said.

Initiative groups in support of Vladimir Putin met in the city of Tver last November and organized a public movement "For Putin". Representatives from 80 regions, where meetings had been held in support of Vladimir Putin's course, attended the meeting. They elected a ten-strong Coordination Council that represents all the federal districts of the Russian Federation. Lawyer Pavel Astakhov, surgeon Renat Akchurin and Head of the trade union of workers of the agrarian -industrial sector Natalia Agapova were elected co- chairmen of the Coordination Council of the movement " For Putin".
At the moment, the news feed on Zaputina.ru hasn't been updated to reflect the new initiative. My first thought is that, although Putin did attend university at LGU's law faculty, it's odd that he would become the public face of what seems to be some sort of nascent legal aid movement. After all, Medvedev was a practicing lawyer for much longer. Anyway, perhaps this is a meaningless bit of non-news, but it was an item that caught my attention.

As a side note, Astakhov, a real lawyer who studied first at the KGB's higher school and later at Pitt Law, achieved notoriety for his involvement in the defense of accused spy Edmond Pope and as a lawyer for NTV during its last days under Gusinsky. He has found widespread fame in Russia as a TV lawyer and was one of the people associated with the ZaPutina website when it was launched in November 2007. An interview with Astakhov on his own website (as in many interviews of this genre, the interviewer is not identified and the responses appear to have been carefully drafted) contains a passage, in which he essentially embraces being called a "careerist." He does seem to have made a seamless jump from defending the '90s-era oligarchy to promoting Putin's course, although in this he has much in common with many Russian political pundits.

His "Hour of Trial with Pavel Astakhov" TV show already apparently provides free legal services to the public (see page 5 of this pdf), so perhaps for him this is an extension of a personal project under the Presidential Prime Ministerial banner.

As another side note, the site that went live last year (which, one can assume, will be rolled out once more if Astakhov's statement is more than a flash in the pan and "Za Putina" returns to the public eye) is not the first iteration of an online movement unabashedly "For Putin." The website's earlier incarnation, which looked virtually the same from its launch in March 2005 through the beginning of November 2007 (shortly after which the new, improved ZaPutina 2.0 was rolled out), has been preserved by the good people at archive.org. Archive.org's "Wayback Machine" is an extremely useful resource for sifting through the dirt of Russian politics as it appeared on the internet for the past 10 years or so.

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Rural Moldovan Bus Stops

This post is, I guess, a tribute to a guy who is something of a photography role model of mine, Christopher Herwig. To understand why I might find this perfect stranger worthy of emulation, you need know no more than I do about him - namely, that he has self-published a photo book titled Soviet Bus Stops. I own a copy of said book and highly recommend buying it as a gift for that Sovok-o-phile who has everything (Google tells me I'm not the only one who feels this way). You can view some of his bus stop images, with a brief introductory essay, here. Herwig observes:
The roadside bus stop serves a simple purpose – to show where the bus will stop and to provide some comfort and shelter for waiting passengers. One would think that the Soviets would have come up with one universal design for this community structure – simple, functional and cheap to mass produce. However, in many instances this was not the case, much time, effort and imagination went into many roadside bus stops. The sky was the limit with different shapes and design– blocks, domes, columns, towers, A-frames and archways, even ones shaped like birds, yurts and hats. If the bus stop was less bold and daring with its architectural design then the creators would often attract attention with decorating the structure with murals or mosaics.
Rural Moldova is replete with such wacky and beautiful bus stops, many of them in a tragic state of disrepair. I would have photographed more of them, but when you're driving on an intercity trip your passengers (even when they're family) start to look at you funny when you pull over, hop out and start clicking away at every bus stop. Nevertheless, each of them is a treasure in its own right. My photos can't really hold a candle to Herwig's, but I was lucky enough to get real people in most of them. The full set, including some other roadside photos from this past summer, can be viewed here.

Alexandreni is one of those villages that I think has been subtly renamed in the post-Soviet years, from Alexandrovka. I am not 100% sure that's the case with the Alexandreni where this bus stop stands, but I know it's happened to at least one village of that name. Also noted on my last visit was a Dmitriovka --> Dumitreni renaming which has taken place in the last couple of years. Creeping Romanianization, indeed.

This looks to be a modern variation (i.e., built in the last 15 years) on the Soviet idea of crazy thematic bus stops. The bottle is an ad for Gura Cainarului mineral water, which is bottled just a short distance away.
“Gura Cainarului is part of our life!”, - and that isn't a simple advertising slogan, these words reflect actual situation. It is Gura Cainarului that during 8 years is the most popular and demanded product on Moldova's market of mineral waters.

Name of mineral water comes from location of this unique spring in the village Gura Cainarului of Floresti region. Spring No. 3 delivering Gura Cainarului water is flowing on the depth of 120 meters. Such depth ensures complete protection from external influences. Numerous layers through which the water raises to the surface saturate it with healthy minerals that are vital for human body.

As you head out of Floresti, this bus stop is on your right-hand side. Take a left on the dirt road which intersects the "highway" at this bus stop, bounce along for a few minutes, and you can buy fizzy or flat water direct from the plant. Or you can just drink from the well that's hidden in this enormous stone bottle.


Marculesti

A daughter tends to her mothers hair while waiting for the bus.


This cheery yet derelict bus stop appears to depict Bolshevik hero Vasily Chapaev and a generic grape-bearing Moldovan maiden, but I'd be happy to hear any other interpretations.

Thursday, November 06, 2008

"Russian March" gets ugly

via [info]drugoi, originally posted by [info]zahard

It's the type of thing that could make a the last Russian liberal's head explode. Nazi-saluting morons getting beaten by cops while marching on the Arbat. Cops stomping on the Russian flag. Should one be outraged over the police brutality, or appalled at the sentiments expressed by the marchers (and the way in which the latter are presumed by hard-core Putin-haters to be fed by the patriotic bombast of Russia's current leaders)? What a dilemma. I applaud [info]drugoi's solution, which was to go photograph the whole mess and then put the pictures online. This one was my favorite from his set:


The guys slinging shawarma - who have, let's face it, a bit more to fear - were apparently more willing to face the crowds of developmentally challenged racists than were the guys in the Kremlin. Here is a fascinating photo-report from the area around Red Square, which was makes it look like the area was under total lockdown as the marchers took the Arbat on November 4th - which, lest we forget, is the Day of National Unity in Russia.

Perhaps the reason for the harsher-than-usual treatment of the marchers (in the past, xenophobic organizations have been allowed to march) was the political context of this year's march (from the Moscow Times):
Although the action had a strong racist element, the increasing problems spawned by the financial crisis gave the rhetoric an economic edge.

"These are not gastarbaitery," said Boris Ivanov, a DPNI member, referring to the thousands of men and women who come to Moscow from Central Asia and the Caucasus to work in markets and construction sites. "These are strikebreakers," he said.

"Life is already very hard for us, and they come and bring down pay rates and make it even harder," he said, while those around him vigorously nodded their heads. "They are useful for the Kremlin and the oligarchs, because they work for less."

City Hall had authorized marches in three of the past four years, but this year authorities reacted strongly to the illegal marchers by deploying hundreds of truncheon-wielding riot police.

The reason behind the unwillingness of the city's authorities to sanction the march could be fear that it would lead to riots in the street, especially given the people's worries about the looming financial crisis, said Alexei Mukhin of the Center for Political Technologies.
And more photos from Nov 4's festivities, from the blog of Kommersant journo Ekaterina Savina.

Wednesday, November 05, 2008

Time to repair the relationship?

One of Fred Kaplan's thoughtful "six priorities for President Obama" (headlined "A Foreign Policy Repair Manual") is this:
Normalize relations with Russia. This may sound cold, but Russia is too important—on energy, nuclear proliferation, terrorism, peace in the Middle East, nearly everything—for our relations to get warped in a new Cold War over the integrity of South Ossetia.

Moscow's aggression should not be blithely tolerated, but it's absurd to respond by, say, admitting Georgia into NATO. First, members are required to have recognized borders, which Georgia lacks. Second, do you—do any Americans—really want to go to war for Tbilisi? (This is what security alliances are all about.) Impose economic and diplomatic pressure. But also assure the Russians that we have no intention of further NATO expansion. Tell them we will proceed to deploy missile defenses in the Czech Republic and Poland if the system works (a nudge-and-wink signal that we probably will not proceed after all). This is not "appeasement," since we have—or should have—no interest in behaving otherwise.

Resume strategic arms talks, and demand in return that Moscow reaffirm the Reagan-era treaty limiting conventional forces in Europe, which Vladimir Putin has been threatening to abrogate. Putin has been riding high these past few years on the vast revenues brought in by high oil prices; the recent plunge and the crash of his stock market might make him more pliant. In short, the time is ripe for a policy of applying pressure where our differences matter and giving way where they don't.
All sounds OK to me.

[Update Nov 7]

Here's a link to Sestanovich's recent Foreign Affairs article - sure to be widely read among people trying to understand trends in the bilateral relationship - which was mentioned in the comments.

And today's Moscow Times had pieces from two Russian politicians, both titled "Getting Along with Obama." Neither of them seemed particularly optimistic.

Liberal ex-Duma Deputy Vladimir Ryzhkov:
Of course, Obama inherited a slew of thorny problems on the foreign policy front -- above all, a very unstable Iraq and a worsening situation in Afghanistan. But overall, we can expect a general improvement in the U.S. position and a global resurgence of trust in Washington -- with one large exception: Russia.
Russia is the one country with which improved relations are unlikely. Obama's administration will have to face the same divisive issues that confronted President George W. Bush. First, Obama has not definitively rejected U.S. plans to deploy elements of a missile-defense system in Poland and the Czech Republic. Second, he supports the U.S. military presence in Central Asia and the expansion of NATO. Third, Obama's position on Georgia differs little from his rival John McCain's, and he will look just as unfavorably at any attempts by Moscow to increase its influence in the former Soviet republics. Fourth, energy resources and pipelines remain a source of constant rivalry as the United States seeks to circumvent Russia by sponsoring alternative oil and gas delivery routes from the Caucasus and Central Asia to the West. Finally, it is safe to say the hawkish advisers in Obama's campaign team -- namely, former Secretary of State Madeleine Albright, former U.S. Ambassador to the United Nations Richard Holbrooke and former National Security Adviser Zbigniew Brzezinski -- probably didn't paint Russia in the most positive terms.
I continue to find it odd but not surprising to see Obama's list of foreign policy advisers - which was as large as 300 people at one point - so frequently cherry-picked to highlight those individuals who are seen as hostile toward Russia.

Federation Council "Senator" Mikhail Margelov strikes a slightly more optimistic (albeit cautiously so) note:
As for Russia, it is too early to speak of any warming of relations between our two countries under the Obama administration. Judging from his advisers, Obama will surely support the U.S. missile-defense system in Poland and the Czech Republic — particularly after President Dmitry Medvedev's state-of-the-nation address on Wednesday, in which he promised to deploy Iskander missiles in Kaliningrad. Thus, it is far from certain that Russia and the United States will become closer partners under an Obama administration.

Most likely, both sides will be content to continue their ongoing selective cooperation on the nonproliferation of weapons of mass destruction and the fight against international terrorism. But the same old disagreements will remain over other former Soviet republics, South Ossetia and Abkhazia, Kosovo, Iran, Iraq and over differing world views.

At the same time, Medvedev said during his address that Russia is not infected with anti-Americanism and does not want a confrontation with the United States. This was underscored when Medvedev emphasized the importance of modernizing Russia, which he said must include fundamental democratic changes. Tensions with the United States and its allies would heavily undermine the country's democratic development.

Confrontation with Russia is clearly not in the interests of the United States either. Obama's administration will not be conducting "cowboy diplomacy" as his predecessors did. Moreover, Obama understands that without Russia it would be difficult to resolve many global problems affecting key U.S. interests. There are certainly people in Obama's inner circle who are not favorably disposed toward Russia, but if they want to bolster U.S. interests and security, they will be forced to cooperate with Russia. The two countries can work together without having to be the best of friends.

And there are concrete reasons why Russia and the United States need to cooperate. The world is becoming more chaotic, and this is dangerous because we are armed to the teeth. Existing measures for ensuring the nonproliferation of nuclear and conventional armaments are ineffective. International institutions created under Cold War conditions are in crisis. The number and scale of conflicts is increasing around the world, including ethnic and religious clashes. Terrorism and poverty remain global powder kegs. State sovereignty gives rise to state egoism. The world community has lost its sense of solidarity and a common conception of good and evil. Foreign policy of nations increasingly favor selfish interests over universal values.

Such a world needs change. But without close cooperation between the leading powers — including the United States and Russia — those changes will not take place.

Medvedev changes the game

ВЕДОМОСТИ
Реформа МедведеваРеформа Медведева

В своем первом послании Федеральному собранию президент Дмитрий Медведев провозгласил кардинальную реформу государственной власти. Меняются сроки полномочий и роли президента, председателя правительства, парламента, федерального и региональных, и политических партий. Далее


Six-year presidential terms? Weren't people talking about this a few years ago as a way of insuring that VVP doesn't, you know, get bored in his dotage?

See also aggregated coverage of this from Yandex.

Tuesday, November 04, 2008

Song for Sarah, and other Election Day bits

In honor of the election watched 'round the world, here is this mildly entertaining contribution to the online body of material (growing fast, but probably with a short shelf life) poking fun at Sarah Palin. It seems to be by a couple of faux Russians, presumably based somewhere in the Lower 48:



If actual Russians could vote, it appears that they would support Obama but be somewhat indifferent, unlike the rest of the world, which seems to favor Obama by a landslide - well, except for Georgia (but see here) and Israel.

The preference for Obama is not shared by Russians who have emigrated to America, reports Ekho Moskvy - they overwhelmingly support McCain. Eugene Ivanov of the Ivanov Report eloquently presents the minority perspective of a pro-Obama Russian-American.

And yes, I know the difference between online polls and actual polls - RIA Novosti has a more advanced take on the traditional online poll, providing visitors with an opportunity to vote "Yes" or "No" on certain key campaign statements supposedly made by the candidates (you vote on each statement without being told which candidate made it).

Users are then told which of the candidates their responses suggest they support. What's interesting about the statements presented is that I doubt some of them ever passed either of the candidates' lips as presented, and a couple even seem a bit like "push-polling" questions. Plus, most of them deal with the US-Russian relationship, which wasn't exactly the focus of the campaign (though I understand why it's the focus of RIAN's fun app). Anyway, the RIAN thing can't be right, because it told me I am torn between McCain and Obama:


On a tangentially related note, by strange coincidence this is the second (presidential) Election Day in a row I'm spending in London. This morning we went to the US Embassy to receive some unrelated American Citizen Services and dropped off our absentee ballots for delivery to the motherland. Unfortunately, no matter who the next president is, I doubt he'll be able to reinvent the world so that our diplomats in friendly nations no longer feel they have to live in bunkers.

And on a barely related note, I wanted to send a congratulatory shout-out to the good people at Global Voices, who received a much more substantial shout-out last week - from the Washington Post - for their excellent Voices Without Votes project.

[update Nov 5] Thank goodness for MSNBC's internet-accessible election coverage. Without it, there is no way I would have been able to stay up into the wee hours of the morning to see McCain concede and Obama orate. Chris Matthews may be annoying, but he's nowhere near as annoying as watching Brits try to fill airtime talking about US politics with D-list "experts."

Here is further confirmation that there is "no Obamamania in Russia" (and I'm not referring to Medvedev welcoming Barry to president-elect status by announcing missile deployments). And some thoughts about the contest from Ukraine.

[update Nov 7] Here is an interesting compilation of Russian elite opinion soundbites from Kommersant-Vlast.