Tuesday, February 08, 2005

Rizhskaya Metro Station on Christmas Day, 2004

Photos from in and around the Rizhskaya metro station, site of a deadly suicide bombing last August.


On the platform.


Waiting.
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Police officer in the vestibule.


Display about metro stations named after cities.


Statue outside of station - in honor of Sputnik (?)


Looking toward the station - note the conspicuous presence
of the Dzhekpot - Jackpot - slot-machine hall.


Passenger with Christmas tree.

All photos taken on December 25, 2004.

Monday, February 07, 2005

"...for those not indifferent to Russia's fate"


I was fortunate to catch most of Monday evening's edition of "Vyorsty" ("Вёрсты"), a political talk show hosted by journalist/author Leonid Mlechin and aired live (a rarity in today's controlled media environment) on the TV-Tsentr (TVC) channel. The show is described on its website as "a program for those not indifferent to Russia's fate."

The topic under discussion was whether the Duma should vote out the government this week. Four Duma deputies - including
Vladimir Ryzhkov, who seems like one of the most promising opposition politicians around today - had a lively discussion with much criticism of both the government and of the president.

TVC (their
English website is here) is often talked about, along with REN-TV, as a channel that's bucking the current trend of tamer, more Kremlin-friendly informational programming. This channel airs some of the most honest programs (go here for a summary of the station's programming in English) around. These include the late-night news show 25th Hour, which was popularized by the controversial Stanislav Kucher (his coverage of the Beslan crisis was especially noteworthy) until he was removed from that role, and the long-running Postscriptum, hosted by Alexei Pushkov.

[Note - I watched 25th Hour tonight and was surprised to see an interview with a rather tongue-tied analyst named Alexander Zhilin in which he mentioned the presence of NATO-backed forces in Chechnya as though it was a proven fact, although the host - Kucher's successor Il'ya Koloskov - to his credit did seem to be getting after Zhilin about the question of how Russian special forces could really have failed to find people like Maskhadov and Basayev for such a long time.]

The station's management, meanwhile,
has claimed that reports of its opposition status are greatly exaggerated by individuals with a commercial interest in rolling back TVC's access to the "Orbita" satellite relay network, which has allowed it to reach a nationwide audience. TVC was originally a Moscow city channel.

Notwithstanding the management's protests it appears the station will not be allowed to keep its broadcast license, which comes up for renewal on May 1 of this year, without a fight. One idea which has been floated about a potential replacement for TVC is
a channel - to be called "Derzhava," or "Power" - which would be run by the Russian Orthodox Church. In addition, I recently heard a rumor from a well-informed friend that another contender to take over the third channel slot is the proposed Ministry of Defense channel - to be called "Zvezda," or "Star" (on Jan. 27 of this year, Kommersant apparently broke the news that this network has official blessing by publishing a draft government resolution titled, "With the goal of creating optimal conditions for the patriotic education of Russian citizens...").

The Church and the Ministry of Defense are two of the most corrupt and discredited institutions in Russian society today - the military's trustworthiness ratings in public opinion polls are low, although the ROC's are not particularly low. They also happen to be two of the closest institutions to the Kremlin, which should give them an inside track in the scrum for the broadcast license, so at this point it doesn't seem likely that TVC will exist in its current form in six months. If the church or the generals don't get to take over the frequency, there are at least a couple of oligarchs who would like to pad their empires with it, so whatever happens it seems likely that TVC will soon go the way of TVS, TV-6, and the original NTV. I will be happy if events prove me wrong.


As for what might happen to the third button on people's TV's and the larger impact, it's impossible to see any of the possible outcomes mentioned above as a win for pluralism on the airwaves; in fact, any of those outcomes would represent another victory for those forces in today's Russia who would rather have bad news kept from the TV-viewing masses.

Zachem?

From the Multitran online dictionary:

зачем [phonetically: Zachem] нареч. фразы предложения
общ. why; wherefore; for what; what for?; whereto
From the website Urbandictionary.com:

Tag (definition 1)
Tag; a personal signature, usually vandalism with spraypaint, but can be any graffitti.Tags can take seconds, or can use multiple colors. Two color tags are usually
throw ups, may consist of block or bubble lettering. bombs Are usually tri color, while piecing/piece/pieces are always of the upper most complexity. Very large, good use of colors, where they will seem to blend together, or bleed, and burn.

(more US tagger slang here; overly academic treatment of graffiti here)

How are these dictionary entries related? Зачем appears to be the tag of the most prolific graffiti artist in my neighborhood:


Ministry of Internal Affairs press kiosk on Tverskaya at Mamonovsky Pereulok.


In an alley-way off Novy Arbat.

What I like about using this word as a tag is that it takes the question people most often ask about graffiti - why? - and throws it back in people's faces. Or perhaps the word is intended as a cry of anguish from someone who wonders WHY there has to be so much suffering in the world. Like all great art (wrote the blogger, tongue-in-cheekily) every viewer will come away from this with something different, and many interpretations are possible. I have seen this guy's (gal's?) art in so many places that if I stopped to photograph all of them it would become Job No. 3 (after my real job and the blog, which as we've already established is Job No. 2)

I will try to photograph a few more of the better Zachem's next time I take a long walk around downtown Moscow. I'm no international graffiti expert, but there seems to be a relatively vibrant tagging scene in Moscow and elsewhere in Russia, if one can judge from some of the
artwork posted on the internet.

Comments anyone?

Photos from Sunday after the banya...

...on the walk to the office.


Perekhod still-life, under Tverskaya at Ul. Yuliusa Fuchika.


On Gasheka St.

Both photos taken around 2:30pm, Feb, 6, 2005.

Free speech on TV in Putin's Russia

This article requires no further commentary:

Monday, February 7, 2005. Issue 3100. Page 8.
Free Speech Does Not Fit the Script
By Yevgenia Albats

It was a rather unexpected phone call for these days. The producer of a talk show at one of the major television channels called to invite me as an expert on an upcoming program. "Are you sure? Did you run my name by your boss?" I asked. I know where I live, and I'm aware that there are lists of those who are allowed on national television and those who are not.

The young woman was confident: "I never cancel guests. The topic to be discussed is the increase of violence on television. So what is your take? Do we need a law banning violent scenes from television?" No, we don't, I said. There is no need to get the state involved in the realm of people's personal choices. Obviously, she didn't remember the Soviet era, when the state chose to play "Big Father" to us all, cutting sex, violence and, of course, unwelcome politics from television screens and feeding us a boring diet of the better world of communism to come. It never came, however.

"Sure, but violence is even on the evening news. Some say that those who run the networks are pushing violence to get higher ratings and more ads. Do you agree?" she asked. Yes, I told her, I did think that television should be socially conscious and responsible. Yet the reason why there is a constant supply of corpses on the news is not just because journalists lack taste, but also because the news menu is far too short nowadays. This, in turn, is because the Kremlin allows too few things to be broadcast by the major television channels. Chechnya is off-limits, for example, yet people are dying there on a daily basis. To cut a long story short, I said, if all television moguls care about is what President Vladimir Putin said, where he went and whom he handed out awards to -- of course, I was exaggerating a bit -- then you have no choice but to show police blotters on the news.

She said she needed to talk to someone and would call me back. She did. "You know, your point of view doesn't fit the script," she said. "No kidding. It doesn't?" I replied sarcastically. "You had better be careful when acknowledging such things to a journalist," I warned her. She didn't get me: "This is what we always do. We have to call several people before we find someone whose point of view fits the script." I laughed. After all, you had to give her credit: At least she was straightforward.

Another young woman from another major television channel who called me a couple of months ago was not. The topic of her show was a hot one, the new law that the Moscow City Duma was about to pass that would free the hands of confidential informers in a way reminiscent of the Soviet era. Sure, I was interested, I said, and asked right away if she had checked my name with her superiors. Her answer was an unexpected pleasure. She said she had read my book on the KGB, which came out in Russia in the early 1990s, and she believed I was the right person for the discussion. I asked her to e-mail me the legislation, so I could do some homework before the show. And, yes, I asked her to consult her superiors again, just in case. She was confident: Everything was set, and all I had to do was come into the studio in the next couple of days.

She did e-mail me the bill the next morning. But she never called back.

I wasn't and I am not surprised. Yet there is always room for curiosity. For instance, last Thursday, NTV ran the pre-recorded debate show "K Baryeru!" It featured zealous anti-Semite and member of the State Duma General Albert Makashov ranting about Jews for more than an hour.

Much of what he said was in direct violation of the Constitution and in any court would be declared the fomenting of ethnic and religious intolerance.

My question is a simple one: Why did that view fit the script? And who authorized it?


In memoriam

My father would have been 64 today. We miss him. Rest in peace, Dad.


Church at Nikitskie Vorota, around 7:30pm,
February 7, 2005.

See page 11 of this pdf (page 9 of the magazine), also here and here for more articles.

Sunday, February 06, 2005

More on Russian blogs

Russian blogger Yakoff has a post up inviting Russian-language bloggers to leave comments with their blogs' URLs. When I have time, I think I'll do a separate blogroll of Russian-language blogs. There are not that many outside of LiveJournal, it looks like, and several of the ones I've found seem like thinly-disguised moneymaking endeavors with lots of links to porn sites and other likely paying advertisers.

Pics of Russia

Check out someone else's pictures from their trip to Russia a few years ago. The internet is full of surprises.

Reflection

The church at the start of Novy Arbat, as reflected in the facade of one of the hideous "book" buildings on that street:


Novy Arbat, around 3pm, February 5, 2005.

Sunday night at home

I was going to spend a bit more time blogging tonight, but got caught up in the outstanding entertainment programming on Russian TV: first a domestically produced, sitcom-like show, "Bachelors," on REN-TV. This show is apparently another product of the A-Media group, the geniuses behind some of the most successful Russian-made TV shows of the past couple of years. Then I caught the TV premiere of an outstanding movie about provincial youth gone wild, which I somehow missed in the theaters - "Moth Games" ("Игры Мотыльков") -- here's a link to some rather sparse English-language info about the movie -- on NTV.

It is definitely nice that in the past few years it's become possible to watch quality, Russian-produced programming (both movies and made-for-TV fare) on TV here instead of second-rate Western sitcoms and soap operas or Hollywood blockbusters (though there are still plenty of the latter) -- it almost makes this viewer not miss all of the fine news and informational programs that have been shut down in those same past few years. Almost.